Goodbye, Ouaga, part 1

Ouaga is famed for its live music. After Ghana, where it is virtually nonexistent, we were excited to get out and finally see some in person. So I had been bugging Ghislain almost from the first minute we met that I had to see some music while we were in town. On this, our final night, he promised he would arrange it.

We breakfasted at our de facto breakfast spot, a collection of four or five tables called Cafétte Restau Somkieta. And though the flies favored it as well, the coffee was real coffee and the omelettes were a mere 150 ceefah (about US$3).

Though only perhaps our third stop at the place, the ladies made a point of saying goodbye and wishing us a safe journey as we prepared to go. It is these little things, these simple gestures of kindness and friendship, despite our myriad differences, that truly fuel you on such trips.

While Alice and Maria return to the SIAO, Shawn, Jeanne and I decide to explore the downtown a bit, with plans to cool off later by visiting the pool at one of the nicer hotels. Our wanderings lead us to Le Verdouet, a pretty, shaded outdoor restaurant not far from the Ghanaian Embassy. It may rank as the best meal we’d had at that point in Africa. And the place is so pleasant, we linger until it is all but empty before heading back to the Hotel Splendid, where we are to meet the others. We never do get around to swimming.

Arriving right on time, Ghislain inform us that he’s worked out the evening’s music. He can’t tell me who’s playing, but he assures me it’s a popular spot. Aline and her sister will be joining us, as will, we learn to our great surprise, the bishop. I am overjoyed that we are being given such a perfect way to say goodbye to these incredibly warm, wonderful people.

The evening’s first stop is to pick up Aline, or so we think. As it turns out, cold beers and snacks are waiting for us and we spend a very pleasant hour on Aline’s parents’ porch, the five us: Ghislain, Aline and her sister, Edvish talking and laughing. Again I found myself genuinely moved by the kindness of these people who were, only a couple of days earlier, complete strangers.

(Picture: Ghislain and Aline in front of Aline’s parents’ place, exhibiting the African habit of not smiling in pictures)