Friday, October 31, 2008

Ben and Boadu

If Abompe is to achieve its goals of becoming an eco-tourist destination, it will be because of young men like Ben and Boadu. They are the developing leaders of their village, with one foot in the old ways, the traditions and cultural isolation, and one foot in the new possibilities. Theirs is a new and increasingly complicated culture, of the Internet, of cell phones, one in which the far-flung corners of the world have been stitched together more than ever before.

During our stay, both of them exhibited a commitment to their community that was based not on immediate benefits, but on the promise, at some point down the road, of advancement for all. It takes a certain kind of person, an openhearted, forward-thinking person , to agree to forego payment for work for a period of months, or years, for the sake of the greater good.

This, it seems to me, is the difference between a transaction and an investment, between stagnation and development. Both Boadu and Ben seem to understand this distinction. Their hard work, and they are tireless, is a kind of sweat equity. When not leading tours, working with beadmakers, helping organize a fledgling bamboo bike project or supporting a mother and two younger siblings, Ben studies mechanical engineer in a town some distance from Dwenase.

Boadu, for his part, is married and only months earlier lost his first child to complications at birth. He waves this off with a smile, as if it were no greater a tragedy than arriving a few minutes late for an appointment. He does what he has to to get by, be it leading tours or digging bauxite.

Incredibly, they make no requests of us. With a sincerity that nearly breaks one’s heart they want only to make a connection, a personal connection, share a moment, perhaps a laugh. They want us to know that our visit is appreciated, that we are appreciated. We have searched and of all the places in the world our resources could have taken us, we chose this little piece of jungle. That is significant. Perhaps, if one is inclined to think this way, it might also be fate.

After only a couple of days I feel a great affection for these two young men. I want so desperately for them what they want for themselves, and their community, that it nearly hurts to breathe. I’m sincerely sad when it is time to leave. As much as is possible, given the things that separate us, they have become friends.

So I say to them now, Ben and Boadu, thank you. Thank you for everything. And all the very best of luck.

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