On the road, part 5

Having added Jean and Laura from the Odumase house, there were now seven of us traveling in Renae’s Mazda SUV. This translates to exactly 231 damaged vertebrae courtesy of the road, or what passes for a road, that takes you to the Mountain Paradise Hotel.

To get to this idyllic hilltop spot, which sits alone above a spectacular expanse of dark green forest, you must first bounce along for an hour, long enough to nearly jar your teeth loose from your head. I have never driven down a flight of stairs, but it cannot be much different.

And if you happen to make the trip during the funeral of three local teachers, you must also pass through long processions of enthusiastic mourners who will crowd your vehicle like flood water, singing, banging their drums and dancing. Do not request “Freebird”; they don’t know it.

The place is worth the trip. A refuge from the heat of the valley, it is well looked after, comfortable and inexpensive. And even though you can wait nearly two hours for dinner, you’ve ordered spaghetti Bolognese and it will be better than you expect. Though it likely benefits some from being eaten in the dark as the Mountain Paradise has no electricity.

Whether due to the food, the washing machine of a drive or some local bit of misdirected voodoo, Jeanne falls ill. It seems to come on all of sudden and she goes pale as the oatmeal that she can’t be bothered to eat the next morning. We go to bed hoping it is temporary.

(Picture [from left to right]: Shawn, Laura [England], Jeanne [U.S.], Carmen [U.S.], Renae [U.S.], Calum [Scotland])